Current Energy

Fiberglass Insulation

We offer the premium high-performance fiberglass loose fill insulation. Its state-of-the-art-engineering and special production processes ensure faster product installation with exceptional quality for a lifetime of reliable performance. It is very effective at filling up irregular spaces while reducing noise without settlement or decay. It is fire resistant and odor-free, containing no chemicals to create noxious odors.

Reducing heating and cooling costs

A poorly insulated home requires an inside temperature at least 3° higher to maintain the same level of comfort. A properly installed insulating system protects your home with a thermal retarder that helps reduce costly fuel bills during heating and cooling seasons.

Reducing air infiltration

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, "before you insulate, you must control air leakage." Reducing air infiltration takes the strain off your heating and cooling units, so they don't waste energy by running longer than necessary. The result can be annual energy-cost savings of up to 10%. Cold, windy days are the best time to check for air leaks. Simply attach a piece of tissue or light paper to a string. Then bring it right up close to areas where you suspect air is getting in or out of your home. If the tissue moves, you've found a leak. Problem areas include the space around doors and windows, where plumbing and electrical wiring comes through walls, floors and ceilings.

Controlling moisture

Showers, cooking, washing and even breathing can put a surprising amount of moisture into your home – from 5 to 10 pounds a day! Washing and drying clothes indoors can add another 30 pounds. In the winter, any moisture that passes through to these surfaces can accumulate and condense on the cold inner sides of exterior surfaces. Eventually, this condensation may blister the outside paint; form stains on drywall ceilings or walls, or even damage your home's structure. Vapor retarders help control the amount of moisture passing through insulation and collecting inside exterior walls, ceilings and floors.

Ensuring proper ventilation

When your attic or crawlspace is properly ventilated, a positive airflow is created which allows the house to breathe and helps to prevent moisture build-up. In hot weather, proper ventilation prevents the attic from becoming a hot box and transferring unwanted heat down through the attic floor (even if the attic is insulated) into the living area. In cold weather, proper ventilation helps prevent moisture from condensing on the insulation, structural wood and the underside of the roof deck. If attics/flat ceilings and crawlspaces are not properly ventilated, problems with moisture are likely to develop. To help an attic and crawlspace breathe, we recommend eave vent openings under the eaves. These combined with roof vents or gable vents create positive movement of air out of the attic. Always provide at least two vent openings, allowing air to flow in one and out the other. As a general rule, one square foot of free vent area per 300 square feet of attic floor area is recommended when a vapor retarder is used. In situations where no vapor retarder is used, one square foot of free vent area should be provided for each 150 square feet of attic floor area.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do higher insulation levels create condensation problems?
No. Insulation is not a source of condensation problems. Ventilation and vapor barriers are the general solutions.
Do I staple the flanges on faced fiberglass insulation to the face of the stud or to the inside of the stud?
When stapling is necessary in cathedral ceiling projects, always staple insulation to the face of the rafter to maintain the necessary one inch ventilation space. If Raft-R-Mate baffles have been installed up the entire length of the cavity, then either way is acceptable. In other projects, such as walls, either way is also appropriate.
Does R-value refer to inches?
No. R-value refers to insulation's resistance to heat flow, not to its thickness. Tiny air pockets trapped in the insulating material resist the passage of heat -- heat gain in the warm summer months, and heat loss in the colder months. The higher the insulation's R-value, the greater its insulating power.
I know insulation helps keep heat in during the winter months, but is there any benefit to having it during summer months?
Yes. Traditionally, insulation has been perceived as a cold climate product that is effective in helping reduce winter heating bills. The fact is, insulation can be just as effective in helping cut air-conditioning costs during the hot summer months. Regardless of indoor or outdoor temperatures, the main concern is heat. Whenever there is a temperature difference between inside and outside, there will be heat flow. Insulation helps slow the transfer of summer heat entering the home, which helps keep the inside cool and lessens the need for continuous air-conditioning. Similarly, in winter, insulation helps keep the house warm by reducing the escape of interior heat.
I am in the middle of an insulation project, but I accidentally tore the vapor retarder. Is repair necessary?
Not usually. The edges should lie close enough together to block most of the water vapor. To fix a large tear, tape the two edges together with standard duct tape.
Does the vapor retarder on fiberglass insulation affect the R-value?
No. There is virtually no thermal performance difference between un-faced fiberglass insulation and kraft-faced or foil-faced fiberglass insulation when properly installed. Faced insulation contains a built-in vapor retarder.
What happens when I compress fiberglass insulation?
Fiberglass insulation works on the principle of trapped air pockets. By compressing fiberglass insulation, you compromise the amount of air trapped in the material, therefore reducing the overall R-value. Compressing a thick product into a small space won't necessarily give you a better R-value. Typically if you take a thicker product and compress it down to a smaller size you will end up with an R-value equal to one that is already available. For example, compressing R-19 into a 2x4 wall cavity will give you an R-13. Owens Corning already makes an R-13 batt, so it is best to just purchase the R-13.
Is insulation blown in or rolled in for a retrofit application?
Insulation is blown in.
Should I insulate the top of my attic?
No.

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